Boutique hotels in Samoa

Samoa is often called the heart of Polynesia, and its culture, fa'a Samoa, is still the center of daily life. Villages are laid out around a central green, families sleep in open-sided fales with thatched roofs, and Sunday is a day of church and feasts. The islands are volcanic, lush and edged with lagoons and reef, and the welcome is warm and unhurried.

Upolu

The main island has the capital, Apia, with a harbor, a market and Robert Louis Stevenson's hilltop home. The south coast has the best beaches, from the powder sand of Lalomanu, with beach fales steps from the water, to the bays at Lefaga and Siumu with resorts and golf. Waterfalls, swimming holes and the To Sua Ocean Trench are day trips from every base.

Savai'i

The larger and wilder island is reached by ferry from Mulifanua and has lava fields, blowholes, ancient star mounds and sleepy beach villages. Manase on the north coast and Lano on the east have the best-known stays.

Where to stay

There are few large hotels. The best accommodation is small: boutique resorts of Samoan-style bungalows, family-run beach fales and a handful of design-minded hotels in Apia.

When to go

The dry season from May to October is most comfortable. The wet season from November to April brings heat, humidity and the risk of cyclones.