Boutique hotels in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is small enough to travel in a week and varied enough to need two. Its boutique hotels range from Dutch merchant houses in Galle Fort to planters' bungalows among the tea, safari camps beside leopard country and villas on empty beaches.

The south coast

Galle, Unawatuna, Weligama, Mirissa and Tangalle string along the coast, each with its own mood. Galle Fort is the most atmospheric, with courtyard hotels in old Dutch houses, while Tangalle has some of the most private retreats on the island.

The hills

Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella and Haputale rise through tea country, with colonial hotels, planters' bungalows and one of the world's great train rides. Nights are cool at altitude.

The cultural triangle and the wild

Sigiriya, Dambulla and Anuradhapura sit among ancient ruins and lakes, and Yala offers safaris for leopards and elephants. In the far north, Jaffna has a distinct Tamil culture.

When to go

The southwest and the hills are best from December to April; the east coast from May to September.